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30 Days in Europe with Max

June 10, 2010 - Germany - St. Goar, Bacharach

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Started the day with a nice breakfast indoors from Frau Kurz. Normal German fare of sliced meats, bread, some veggies and coffee/tea. Our first goal was to hike up to the Lorelei on the other side of the river that day. The Lorelei is a big cliff overlooking the Rhine at its narrowest and deepest part where boats are prone to wrecking. Legend says a siren calls to the captains there. We walked down to the river and took a ferry across so we could hike up the Lorelei via directions from Rick Steves' book.


Max eating something from yet another wonderful German bakery.


Our ferry to the other side approaches.


It being a Saturday, there were numerous motorcycle groups in the area. Naturally BMWs were a popular bike. Riders seemed to be outfitted well.


Looking down from the upper deck of the ferry.

The directions for the hike were sadly lacking. We hiked up a steep trail with many stairs through the woods past a privately owned castle. Met a nice young German student, maybe the equivalent of a senior in high school, who let us walk with him in the right direction. Chatted a bit and he gave us vague directions. Went through a suburban neighborhood, then veered off into the woods and into a wheat field. While crossing that we heard waldhorns in the distance and followed them to the Lorelei visitor's center. Nice views. Hiked down to the road along the river and then back to the ferry for a return trip across. Somewhat surreal and interesting hike all in all.


Finding our way out of St. Goarshausen up to the trail in the woods.


The gates to the privately owned, closed castle, part way up the mountain.


The rutted track off the paved road that led to the wheat field.


A signpost in the wheatfield pointed the way to the Lorelei visitors center.


Looking down across the Rhine at a campground.


Looking north to St. Goarshausen. A statue of the Lorelei maiden sits at the end of the spit of land in the river.


The statue of the Lorelei maiden.

Back in St. Goar we toured the famed cuckoo clock and beer stein stores. Didn't buy anything. I don't want a battery powered cuckoo clock. No one would pull the clock chains on a non-battery powered clock after a while, and the steins would just gather dust. Tempting though. We then boarded one of the many tourist boats for a cruise up the Rhine to the town of Bacharach. Had a beer during the trip. It was very nice and relaxing. I see why lots of people like to do this.


Why can't we buy cute little RVs like this in the states?


The famed cuckoo clock store in St. Goar.


Boarding the tour boat for Bacharach.


Nice comfortable seating on the upper deck.


Looking up at the Lorelei from the boat.


Cliffs along the Rhine, the deepest, narrowest part.


Heading south, upstream towards Bacharach.


Pretty nice stonework and architecture for a train tunnel entrance.


A cargo barge. Containers go below the red metal roof.


The town of Oberwesel on the way to Bacharach.


A cathedral in Oberwesel.


The dining room on the boat.


The town of Kaub.


Die Pfalz. The famous castle in the middle of the Rhine.


Die Pfalz again.


Die Pfalz again. Bacharach is another well preserved medieval town and cute as the dickens. After a wurst and fries lunch at the imbiss near the boat dock, we walked the town via Rick Steves' self guided walking tour. A very Zelda-like adventure with directions guiding you through staircases, passageways, vineyards, alleys, etc. Explored ruins of a cathedral, hiked up to Castle Stahleck. Climbed a tower in a vineyard, back through town, and then the boat back to St. Goar.


Arriving in Bacharach.


Beginning to explore Bacharach.


The Alt Haus (old house) in Bacharach.


Gaining elevation above the town on our hike up to a castle.


Ruins of a cathedral.


Castle Stahleck at the top of the hill above Bacharach.


A fun tower to climb, with good views.


Approaching the tower.


Looking down at Bacharch from the tower.


Heading towards the part of Bacharach away from the river.


Looking back up at Castle Stahleck.


A Smart Car Roadster. Don't see these in the US, yet.


Another fuel efficient car you can't buy in the US.

For dinner we tried a new restaurant and I got spargle (white asparaugus) on a big salad. Max got a schnitzel. To bed then after a brief stroll around town.


Beautiful shingle work around dormer windows.


Spargle for dinner!


Lamps make good laundy lines. Don't tell Frau Kurz.

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