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June 14, 2010 - Germany - St. Goar, Mosel River, Koblenze, Pfaffendorf
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Breakfast outdoors on Frau Kurz's terrace. Max had peppermint tea for the second time. I like the German coffee a lot. Good and strong and plenty of it with your own little decanter. The soft boiled egg every morning is lovely. Got our bikes out of Frau Kurz's garage after packing and headed down river for Boppard, where we would head away from the Rhine river to the Mosel river. Nice ride with Max setting a fast pace.
Breakfast on the terrace at Frau Kurz's.
Saying farewell to Frau Kurz.
Arrived in Boppard and strolled our bikes through the fussganger zone. Many locals out shopping, no sign of tourists. Got some fruit for a change, cherries and peaches. After some wrong turns and asking of directions, we got on the road heading up and out of Boppard. This was a long (5 miles?) hill climb through a peaceful elm and oak forest with many a bird singing. Strenuous, but not too much so. Shady and cool during the climb with no traffic to speak of.
Entering the fussgangerzone in Boppard.
Fresh fruit from a market.
Another Smart Car Roadster.
Jim starts the hill climb out of Boppard.
The climb out of Boppard through the forest.
An overlook midway up the climb.
Reached the top and set out on a road with not much traffic across fields and through forests. Idyllic and fun. Then a long descent into the Mosel valley. Crossed the Mosel and headed upstream on the north side. Pretty. River much smaller and more placid than the Rhine. Had lunch in a little town alongside the river, sat outside. Half chickens for us, plus soup, fries and sald. As usual, a nice hefeweizen for me.
Traversing the high land between the Rhine and Mosel river valleys.
Enjoying a descent after the long climb.
Down we go to the Mosel.
The Mosel river appears.
A castle on the Mosel.
A good hot day for a hefeweizen beer.
Chicken for lunch on the Mosel.
Rode on to hotel Ringelsteiner at the trailhead to Burg Elz. After some negotiation with the staff, they kept our bags for us so we wouldn't have to worry about them while hiking to Burg Elz. We locked our bikes up and then hiked up the trail through the woods to Burg Elz. In the interest of time, we took the German tour of the castle rather than waiting for an English tour. Our guidebook and pamphlets helped in learning about what we were seeing. Pretty neat place. Gave you a good idea of what life was like for the wealthy in the middle ages there. Then hiked back down to the bikes.
The beginning of the hike to Burg Elz.
Burg Elz. Like many other places we saw it was shrouded in scaffolding while being renovated.
The bridge across a stream to Burg Elz.
Cobbled path to the main gate.
Almost there.
Tried to catch a boat down river to Koblenz, but signs said the boat wasn't stopping where they normally do. We ended up riding our bikes all the way to Koblenz that day for a total of about 50 miles. Had planned to spend the night up the Mosel, but ended up near Lahnstein again in the town of Pfaffendorf. So, we were a day ahead after that. Hotel was great, overlooked the Rhine, private bathroom, Wifi, secure garage for our bikes, plus breakfast. Nice, big dinner that night. Schnitzels for both of us.
Impressive bridge on the way to Koblenz.
vineyards on the banks of the lower Mosel.
Our room in Pfaffendorf, just across the river from Koblenz.
A view out our window looking across the Rhine to Koblenz.
Dinner for me. What else, a schnitzel! Love those gemischter salats.
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